We went to Assos — a town that still carries the traces of Aristotle — dreaming of a nice Aegean holiday, and came back with memories far beyond our expectations. We wandered its stone streets for hours, discovered one lovely restaurant after another, and swam in crystal-clear water. If you're planning an Assos trip, here is our own route and the places we can genuinely recommend.
Where to stay in Assos?
We stayed at Assos Lion Beach in Kadırga Bay and left truly happy. The rooms are brand new and the staff couldn't be more attentive. Its biggest advantage is the hotel's own free beach right in front.
Our days usually started with the hotel's excellent breakfast, then we'd swim and lounge on the beach until mid-afternoon. The beach is very calm — no loud music, no crowds — a wonderful spot for anyone looking for peace. In between we'd take gözleme breaks on the shore, then get ready and head out to explore. That was our favourite thing about Assos: a pace that never rushes you, that slows you down and settles you.
Where to eat in Assos? The restaurants we tried
Aret'in Yeri. Our first evening. Even without a reservation they seated us at a lovely table without any wait. The atmosphere was warm from the first minute; Aret Bey and his team came by our table several times during the night for a chat. We loved every meze that landed on the table — the avcı böreği (fried "hunter's" pastry), the crispy calamari and the shrimp casserole were outstanding. But the star of the night was, without question, the bluefin tuna: it felt less like eating fish and more like a perfectly cooked red meat. The complimentary fruit and pistachios at the end closed the evening beautifully. We knew that first night that our Assos trip had started well.
Assos Bohemian Restaurant. Our best discovery in Behramkale, no hesitation. It's famous for its pizzas, though there are burgers and more on the menu. We tried the funghi, smoked beef, pepperoni and mixed pizzas; all four were excellent, but the funghi and the smoked beef were the ones we fell for — they went straight into the best pizzas we've ever eaten. After the first slice we told each other "we're coming back," and we really did return the very next day. Do try their homemade basil sherbet. We were very curious about the tiramisu but it was sold out on both visits — a good excuse for a next trip. They told us pasta is joining the menu soon.
Közlü Assos. The view was already beautiful, but what really impressed us was the food. The grills were very good, and the chicken casserole was far beyond what we expected. For dessert, definitely order the oven-baked rice pudding.
Baykuş by Ginger. The biggest surprise of the trip. Calling it just a "meyhane" would honestly be unfair — this is not your usual rakı-and-meze place; you can feel serious kitchen craft in every plate. The kitchen is run by a chef with awards both in Turkey and abroad, and you taste it in every single dish. The crispy fried zucchini, the fried stuffed zucchini flowers, the pastırma-wrapped fried cheese and the shrimp were each wonderful. But the star of the night, without any debate, was the lamb tandır wrapped in crispy yufka and served on a bed of demi-glace — reason enough on its own to go back. We closed with profiteroles and lived the most unforgettable evening of the holiday there.
Breaks and desserts. After Bohemian we took a small but lovely break at the café of Assos Sunset Boutique Hotel: just a few tables, calm, with a gorgeous view. The fig-and-milk-pudding dessert there stayed with us, and the hazelnut-syrup latte was every bit as good. We liked it so much we went back a second time during the trip. One evening we sat at Judith Terrace Assos, a terrace café facing the view; the cocktails were good, but what won us over was the laid-back, sincere, peaceful atmosphere — the live music was a joy. Another surprise treat in Assos: hot waffle ice cream. We tried it at both Ali Usta and Yahya Usta and both were delicious — two thin waffles made hot on the spot, spread with chocolate and filled with ice cream. It sounds simple until the first bite explains everything.
The recommendation we couldn't try: Palamud. Almost everyone we talked to in the area recommended Assos Palamud Restoran. We planned to go, but a small health hiccup changed our plans and we couldn't make it — it clearly belongs on your list, and it's staying on ours for next time.
What to see in Assos?
The Ancient Harbour. A lovely spot for a seaside walk, browsing the souvenir shops and taking photos. In our view 1–2 hours is enough.
Behramkale Village. Let's be honest: this was the place that impressed us most in all of Assos. With its stone streets, small shops, breathtaking view and lively atmosphere, you could wander for hours. We kept coming back throughout the trip.
The Temple of Athena. It was quite windy the day we went, but the view was still breathtaking. Don't leave Assos without seeing it.
The sea and practical tips
We only swam at Kadırga Bay and the water was truly like glass. Bring swimming goggles — the underwater view is incredible. One more tip: pack water shoes. The shore is rocky, so getting in and out is much more comfortable with them. If you're jumping off the pier, watch out for the rocks below; two people from our group hit their feet. And a road note: the roads are generally comfortable but quite narrow in places — be a little careful where two cars have to pass.
Last word
We left Assos with more than nice photos: with restaurants we already want to revisit, moments of real calm, and that "so glad we came" feeling. If you prefer quiet bays over beach parties, long tables over loud nights, getting lost in stone streets and actually resting — Assos will win you over too.